Is the pandemic making your hair fall out?

Over the past year and a half, hair loss complaints have been at an all time high among our salon guests. A quick glance at social media and you’ll find people commiserating over losing their hair and desperately searching for answers and solutions. In your lifetime you’ve probably heard that stress can cause hair loss, but has anyone told you why or how to deal with it? In today’s post I’ll try to offer some education and some resources on this topic.

a quick primer on the hair growth cycle

The anagen stage is where the hair is growing. For scalp hair, this stage lasts an average of three to five years for most people. At any given time, about 90% of your strands are in the anagen phase.

The catagen stage is the transition phase. This short phase lasts about ten days where the follicles shrink and the hair begins to separate.

The telogen stage is a resting phase that lasts on average three to four months. Hair in this stage isn’t growing but it usually isn’t falling out either. Often times the shedding phase is lumped in with this resting phase completing the hair growth cycle, but scientists have separated that into another part called the exogen phase.

The exogen phase is when hair is shed from the scalp. Hair loss may be around 50 to 100 strands per day. Lasting two to five months on average, new hairs are beginning to form inside the follicles where the old hair is falling away.

the basics of telogen effluvium

Telogen effluvium is the technical name given to hair loss that occurs after a disruption of the hair growth cycle. It is the excessive shedding of resting (telogen phase) hairs after some shock or trauma to the body. Things that can shock our system and disrupt our hair growth cycles include childbirth (post partum hair loss), acute or chronic illness (especially with a fever), surgeries, extreme weight loss, poor sleep habits, certain medications, and psychological stress.

Hair lost during telogen effluvium is diffuse hair loss. This means it generally occurs throughout the whole head, unlike androgenic alopecia which may follow a certain pattern around the hairline and/or the top of the head.

With normal hair loss averaging 50 to 100 strands a day, those suffering telogen effluvium may experience hundreds of strands coming out at once. The hair loss may seem more pronounced when brushing or washing the hair, as the manual manipulation helps remove the hairs that are loosely resting in the scalp.

covid-19 and telogen effluvium

Hair loss has been commonly reported in covid-19 patients all around the world . Most are believed to be cases of telogen effluvium. There are many reasons why covid-19 could disrupt our hair growth cycle. Remember, any illness that comes with a high fever can trigger telogen effluvium. The body may push hair into the resting phase for conservation of energy so the immune system can work full force to fight off infection. Patients hospitalized due to covid-19 are likely to endure high levels of stress, and may also have to start and stop medications abruptly depending on the course of treatment required for their condition. During the peak of all this activity, the hairs may be sent into the resting phase but the actual loss of hair won’t be experienced until later. Because of this delayed response, some patients may not even connect the illness with their hair loss, especially if they have already made a full recovery.

telogen efflluvium without illness

If you’ve managed to avoid becoming ill during the pandemic, you may wonder how covid-19 can still play a part in your hair loss. Since the onset of the pandemic, stress has disrupted our lives in ways that were previously unimaginable. We’ve all been riding the waves of a very stressful storm, just in very different boats.

Healthcare workers have been overburdened caring for the masses of sick people with seemingly no end in sight. Small businesses had their doors closed for weeks or months. Even when businesses reopened, new challenges came such as navigating public health guidelines, dealing with illness and exposures among staff, and facing supply chain issues. Parents were forced to send their children to virtual school, juggle hybrid education, or switch to home schooling. Many people faced financial insecurities, lost their jobs and even lost heir health insurance. Even those who remained employed have faced extreme burnout due to staffing issues, unsafe work environments, and/or demanding customers.

If you really think about it, who hasn’t had some major stress during the past year? This degree of stress can cause panic attacks, general anxiety, depression, disruption of sleep patterns, changes to diet and activity levels, and can send people spiraling to unhealthy coping mechanisms. All of these things can disrupt the normal functions of the body and possibly trigger a telogen effluvium.

You may not feel as stressed now if things have improved, but that doesn’t mean you can escape the hair loss. If the hair growth cycle has already been disrupted, the shedding follows that several months later.

medical concerns about hair loss

It’s important to note that there are special cases where there may be medical concerns associated with hair loss. Diagnosing whether you have a telogen effluvium or something different may be challenging not only for a patient, but for clinicians as well. A doctor can ask about your health history and run tests to rule out other possible conditions like thyroid problems. A professional can look at your hair and scalp and evaluate how much hair is coming out, look for new short hairs that are growing in, and biopsy the scalp if necessary. Dermatologists may be able to offer treatments for hair loss depending on the diagnosis. If you are having other concerning symptoms with your hair loss, or your hair loss doesn’t resolve after some time I encourage you to speak to a medical professional. While we may offer a wealth of information for consideration, remember that your hairstylist is not qualified to diagnose a medical condition or give you medical advice.

a perfect storm for marketing products and supplements

The market for hair loss products and supplements is already valued at several billion dollars and is rapidly growing. A quick google search for “hair growth” will overwhelm you with ads for collagen drinks, biotin gummies, vitamins, shampoos and conditioners, prescription drugs, and even devices such as laser helmets. How can we know what possibly works and what doesn’t?

The first and most important thing I’d like to point out here is that most cases of telogen effluvium self resolve without any treatment. The best thing you can do is take care of yourself. Managing stress levels, consuming a balanced diet, living an active lifestyle, and getting plenty of rest are key to overall body wellness and should be a priority. With a case of telogen effluvium, most will see noticeable signs of recovery in 6-12 months, although it may take longer for hairs to regrow to full length if you have very long hair.

There are very few FDA approved drugs to treat hair loss. Minoxidil and finasteride are currently the only two. Minoxidil is the active ingredient found in Rogaine and Nioxin and similar products available over the counter. While these may be popular and come with few risks of use, they are not necessary for treatment of telogen effluvium and not everyone will see results using these products. These products appear very useful in treating androgenic alopecia (commonly known as aging related hair loss, male/female pattern baldness), but that’s a topic for another post.

Vitamin supplements for hair growth may be minimally effective (if at all) unless you’re suffering from some nutritional deficiency. Despite media hype leading to popularity among consumers, actual research doesn’t back the beauty industry’s biotin obsession. Biotin supplementation in otherwise healthy individuals seems to be clinically insignificant in the case of hair growth. On another note, biotin can actually interfere with a variety of lab tests including thyroid hormone tests. That is one example of why it is important to talk to your doctor about the supplements you are taking.

When it comes to collagen supplements, it appears the jury is still out. There is some conflicting evidence here. Collagen does play an important role in supporting healthy hair follicles and we know that factors such as aging, stress, and diet may lower collagen levels in our bodies. Many of the existing studies on collagen for hair growth have been undertaken by companies who sell supplements, so these may show weak data or strong bias. There is more research being done, but it doesn’t appear to be a quick fix for hair loss.

While many of the products and supplements on the market may be generally regarded as safe so it may not hurt to try, it can certainly get expensive and comes with no guarantee of results. Understanding the science behind why and how things work may help you determine if you feel it worthwhile to invest in any of these products. Having realistic expectations will also help you avoid disappointment and buyers remorse.

how a visit to the salon might be able to help

Regardless of what caused your hair loss or whether or not you seek medical intervention for it, trained beauty professionals may be able to help you look and feel better through the recovery process.

As a hairstylist, I enjoy using my knowledge to make product recommendations for my clients based on their needs. I can’t promise to sell you anything that will make your hair magically grow and I cannot provide you with medical diagnosis or treatment, but I can offer some advice and products to help you create the healthiest scalp environment to promote hair growth and teach you how to care for the strands that are still attached to your head.

We offer in-salon treatments to help keep your remaining hair healthy and strong. This can make a big improvement in appearance and manageability of your hair, especially if you are suffering from damage and breakage in addition to your hair loss.

A good hair cut may be in order to remove frayed ends, which can immediately improve the appearance of your hair. Perhaps your previously thick hair was always cut with long layers, and now a shorter blunt cut would work better to help to create the illusion of fullness in the ends of the hair.

Dimensional coloring techniques can give the appearance of thicker hair when compared to one solid, flat, overall color. If you’re going for a totally different hair cut, it can sometimes be enhanced by a different color placement.

There are also many methods of hair extensions available. A consultation with an extensions specialist is needed if you’re considering this route. I personally do not offer extension services to my clients, but I am a fan of temporary extensions such as clip ins, halo pieces, and toppers. I have utilized some of these myself over the years so I can recommend my favorite products, let clients see and touch my own personal hair pieces, assist with color matching for the brand I am familiar with, and answer any questions.

If you’re looking for any of these services to help you look and feel your best, and you are local to the Sumter, South Carolina area feel free to reach out for more information.

Final thoughts

Knowledge is power, and understanding what we are going through and why can help us cope through the process.

I have seen people blaming their hair care products for hair loss, and most of the time that’s not the case. The exception would be harmful formulations or contaminated products, which are very rare and usually also bring about significant scalp irritation and other problems.

I’ve also seen people blaming the covid-19 vaccine for hair loss. According to the medical community there isn’t evidence to support that, but just like blaming their hair care products, people see a vaccine as something “new” in their body and are looking for one specific thing to blame. It’s important to remember that correlation doesn’t necessary equal causation.

For most of us, pandemic related hair loss will self resolve without much action on our own part. Take comfort in the fact that you are not alone, and know that just like many of the other frustrations the pandemic has brought to our lives, this too shall pass.

Sunscreen Favorites of 2021

I didn’t start regularly wearing sunscreen until a couple years ago when I embarked on a journey to improve my skin. Prior to that, I thought of it as something I only needed when I was going to be outdoors and worried about a sunburn. In reality, it should be something you use on a daily basis. It helps prevent signs of aging, prevents skin discoloration spots, reduces your risk of skin cancer, and even reduces inflammation.

Not all sunscreens are created equal. You have chemical sunscreens, mineral sunscreens, and combinations of the two. There are creams, sprays, and powders. Some products are tinted, and others have no pigment. It can be a daunting task to sort through all of the products and personal preferences may differ. Today I’ll be reviewing some products that were staples in my personal skincare routine throughout the year.

DRMTLGY Sunscreens ($23-$28, available at drmtlgy.com)

I rotate through these three different formulas depending on my needs for the day.

The Universal Tinted Moisturizer SPF 46 provides sheer color coverage that blends with a range of complexions. I’m quite fair skinned, so this gives me a bit of a warm glow which is perfect for the summer.

The Physical Tinted Moisturizer SPF 44 formula is a bit thicker and provides buildable color coverage. It leaves the skin with a nice glow that is a little less warm for me than its physical/mineral combo counterpart.

The Broad Spectrum SPF 45 is a combination mineral + chemical sunscreen with no tint. It applies with a whitish/purplish tint but dries down to a clear finish without leaving any cast on my fair skin.

The finish on these sunscreens is somewhere between natural and dewy. They definitely aren’t matte, but they aren’t super shiny either.

Australian Gold Botanical Tinted Face Mineral SPF 50 ($15.99 at Ulta.com)

If you are looking for a strictly mineral sunscreen formula that dries down matte, this might be THE holy grail. Available in two finishes (Fair to Light pictured here, and Medium to Tan not pictured) this has a velvety formula that dries down completely matte and has a blurring effect to even out your complexion. It’s fragrance free, affordable, and also water resistant up to 80 minutes. This one was a staple in my beach bag this year.

Clinique Pep-Start Daily UV Protector SPF 50 ($23.00 at Sephora.com)

This mineral sunscreen has just enough tint to prevent leaving a white cast. It blends in perfectly on my fair skin without offering much coverage. It has a liquid consistency that’s on the thinner side and applies quite shiny, but it dries down quickly and with a natural looking finish. It’s lightweight and works well under makeup and/or layers well for reapplication.

CeraVe Ultra-Light Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30 ($14.89 at Target.com)

This is a simple moisturizer with chemical sunscreen filters. The light creamy formula features ceramides and hyaluronic acid to hydrate and protect the skin. It applies easily with no white cast and leaves a dewy finish. I originally tried this in 2020 and I’ve repurchased this product several times this year. This is the bare minimum SPF for days I don’t leave the house, my go to for tossing in my purse for reapplication on busy days and during road trips, and it’s the product I reach for to prep my skin if I’m planning on wearing a full face of makeup.

Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel Lotion SPF 50 ($12.33 at Walmart.com)

Until now, this review has focused on the sunscreens I have been using on my face/neck. This new sunscreen from Neutrogena was my favorite formula for the body this year. The water gel consistency makes this product apply like a dream with a slight cooling sensation. It spreads quickly and evenly and is water resistant for up to 80 minutes. It’s perfect for applying before a trip to the park or a walk on the beach. While this formula can be used on the face as well, it does cause some burning and stinging if it migrates into my eyes so I don’t often use it for my face. It also has a fragrance that isn’t my favorite, but I can ignore that since it doesn’t irritate my skin. Overall, I think this is a great sunscreen at a great price.

Powder SPF (Colorescience Sunforgettable SPF -$69.00 at colorescience.com and Supergoop! Invincible Setting Powder SPF 45 - $30 at JCPenney.com)

The first point I’d like to make here is that powder sunscreen is not sufficient protection on its own. To get good protection with these you’d need a very dense and evenly applied coat of powder across the skin surface, and that’s difficult to achieve. These products are supplements to my other favorite sunscreens. I use them to matte down anything that leaves my skin a little shiny. I use them in my part and/or thinning areas of the hairline. I also use them to reapply over other sunscreens and makeup multiple times a day while on the go.

Colorescience offers luxury beauty and makeup products designed to protect your skin. They offer this powder sunscreen formula in SPF 30 and SPF 50. The formula is great, the packaging is convenient, and based on my own research I think this is probably one of the best powder sunscreens on the market. Unfortunately, it it comes at a premium price. You can sometimes get a deal by shopping a sale on their website or sales through other distributors, or by buying a bundle deal including other products from the brand. Overall, I love and will probably repurchase this product, but not at full price.

Supergoop! has done some rebranding and repackaging of products, and I think this specific one I have been using may be discontinued. They currently offer this new (Re)Setting 100% Mineral Powder SPF 35 on their website and in Sephora, and it looks similar to the product I have shown here. Overall, I have enjoyed the Invincible Setting Powder. The formula is nice, and so is the price point, but the packaging was a bit frustrating. The brush is magnetized to the base so it can pop off and cause powder to spill. I also felt it was harder to slide up the plastic shield to encase the brush before replacing the lid. This plastic shield also cracked very easily the first time I dropped it. The Colorescience packaging did not have any of these problems.

I will probably try the new powder SPF packaging from Supergoop next time I need to purchase a product in this category. Although we can’t rely on them as our main source of protection, I think powder sunscreens are something I’d like to keep in my arsenal.

I’m looking forward to protecting my skin with these favorites and hopefully finding some amazing new products in 2022. I hope you will find something useful from my recommendations, but remember that skin care is a very personal thing. The best sunscreen is whichever one you love and will wear regularly. Happy New Year!

Red Light Therapy for skincare - Omnilux

what is photobiomodulation?

Photobiomodulation (PBM) has also been known as Low Level Laser Therapy (LLLT). It refers to the application of red and near-infrared light to the skin. A reasonable amount of clinical evidence suggests PBM to be a safe and effective therapy that helps encourage wound healing, provide relief from pain, reduce inflammation, and encourages rejuvenating effects on aging skin. It also appears to benefit hair growth, but stay tuned for more on that topic in a future post.

how does it work?

Specific wavelengths of light are applied to the skin. The light is absorbed by cells where it then enhances ATP production within the mitochondria of cells, improves cell signaling and growth factor synthesis, and reduces the effects of oxidative stress. This is a very simplified explanation of a rather complex process that is still being researched to this day, but you get the point.

what kind of light is used?

Most of the research focuses on wavelengths in the Red (620-750 nm) and near-infrared (750-1200) ranges. The “gold standard” appears to be 633nm for red and 830nm for near-infrared. The correct wavelength is the single most important factor for achieving results. The irradiance (amount of light delivered to the skin) is important as well. The “optimal” clinical irradiance appears to be 40-150 mW/cm2.

is it safe for use?

Generally speaking, PBM or LLLT is thought to be safe. It is painless and can be used on all skin types with no down time. However, there are certain cases where it may not be safe. Some of the most well-known contraindications for light therapy include conditions such as epilepsy, photosensitive disorders, certain genetic conditions of the eyes, and medications that cause light sensitivity. It is also not recommended for use during pregnancy. It’s important to read the warnings that come with your specific light therapy device and contact your physician if you have any concerns or experience any undesirable reactions.

There are so many devices on the market for consumers to treat their skin at home. This review is going to focus on my own personal experience with Omnilux brand devices. I chose to invest in Omnilux for a few reasons. The first reason was the clinical data that shows Omnilux uses the gold standard wavelengths of light at an appropriate dose. Their devices are also FDA approved. Beyond the safety and efficacy, the sleek designs were appealing to me. The soft silicone rests comfortably conforming to the skin. Flexible and flat, the design makes them easy to store between uses and rechargeable batteries make the devices convenient to use cordlessly.

Treatment is recommended 3 times a week for 10 minutes per session. Treating more often doesn’t necessarily mean better results, but using it more often won’t harm you. I use my devices between three to five times per week. They can be used any time of day, but it is recommended to use them on clean skin. I tend to prefer using mine at night as part of my evening skincare routine, but sometimes I use them in the morning before my skincare routine.

I have always struggled with very sensitive skin. I often battle facial redness - sometimes seemingly for no reason. I haven’t been clinically diagnosed, but I believe I may have type one rosacea. I didn’t take great care of my skin until a few years ago, and as a result I had a lot of damage I’ve been trying to undo. I’ve been noticing the fine lines and wrinkles increasing ever since I crossed over into my 30s. I’ve also recently lost a large amount of weight which has led to some loose skin in the facial area.

Hairstylists are always working with our hands and much of that time is spent in chemicals and water. We get cuts, scrapes, and scratches on them regularly. This can lead to a lot of irritation and skin issues. This winter I began to struggle with extreme dryness and an outbreak of red and white bumps on the backs of my hands. They were itching and driving me crazy to the point I was sleeping in soft gloves so I wouldn’t scratch them in my sleep. Hand creams just weren’t enough to heal it.

Out of frustration and curiosity, I attempted using my Omnilux contour face mask by laying it over the backs of my hands. After the first treatment, I saw a slight reduction in irritation so I decided to try again the next day. After a couple treatments, things were definitely improving. I decided it was time to invest in the Omnilux glove to regularly treat my hands more easily and effectively.

Since treating my hands with Omnilux devices (and finding a great hand cream) my hands are doing much better. I do my treatments at night, and slather on my hand cream just before going to bed. Ten minutes on one hand then I swap the glove to my other hand. The glove seems to hold enough charge for about 50 minutes, so I need to recharge it after two days of treatments if I want to be able to do both hands on the third night.

For my face, I was mainly interested in reducing inflammation in the short term and anti-aging benefits in the long term. The energy delivered to cells is thought to help with collagen and elastin production in the deeper layers of the skin which can improve the surface appearance and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. It can also help brighten skin tone and improve skin texture.

3 month side-by-side comparison

As far as anti-aging benefits, it’s hard for me to say how much of the changes in my skin come from the light therapy, because I do use a variety of skincare products including exfoliating acids, serums, moisturizers, and daily SPF. I’m sure all of those things contribute to the changes in my skin, but having been on a skincare journey for couple years now I will say I believe the mask has accelerated some changes in my face. I’ve been using it for a mere three months, and I was only expecting modest benefits, so I would say it has definitely surpassed my expectations thus far. Each individual use is a pleasant soothing experience for my skin.

3 month side-by-side comparison

For my hands, I used the mask for about two weeks before I invested in the glove. I’ve had my glove for about two weeks now as well. So I’m about one month into that journey. Unfortunately I don’t have any clear photos of when my hands were at their worst, but I did take a photo the day I got my glove. I’m interested to see if my hands will experience cosmetic changes in the long term, although I mostly invested in the glove for the healing benefits.

Two week side-by-side comparison

Overall, I can’t tell you if an LED device is a good investment for you specifically. You’ll have to make your own decision. As with all skincare, consistency is key. If you’re not going to use it regularly, you won’t see results. It takes time and patience. Also, if you aren’t diligent in your usage of sunscreen, any anti-aging treatments you invest in are basically going to waste.

If you do decide to invest in an LED device for home treatment, make sure you do your research. Find one that uses the clinically proven wavelengths of light and has sufficient irradiance. Look for one that has FDA approval. There are also devices to treat acne prone skin (blue light) and red light devices for the neck/chest area.

At a price point of $395 USD for the Omnilux Contour Mask and $345 USD for the Omnilux Contour Glove, the up front cost may cause some hesitation. However, seeking light treatments at a spa, esthetician, dermatologist, doctors office, etc. may cost you between $20-$100 per visit. That adds up pretty quickly. Think of your device as a long term investment. Another great thing about Omnilux is that Contour devices come with a 1 year warranty for the battery/controller and a two year warranty for the device itself. Cheaper devices may offer shorter warranties or no warranty at all.

This review is not sponsored at all. I paid for these devices with my own money for personal use, and this post reflects my personal experience and opinions. If you’ve used a light therapy device before, drop a comment to share your experience! Also, if you have any questions that weren’t answered here feel free to ask. I plan to share future updates at the six month and one year mark as well, so stick around for those if you’re interested.

links to products and more information

Omnilux Contour Face

Omnilux Contour Glove

Omnilux Frequently Asked Questions

Omnilux Guide to Contraindications

December 2021 - Dry Shampoo recalled over benzene concerns

Proctor & Gamble has recalled 32 of its aerosol dry shampoo and dry conditioner haircare products due to contamination with carcinogen benzene. In this post, I’ll try to give you a quick rundown of the situation as well as answer some questions you may have.

what is benzene?

Benzene is a chemical that occurs in nature from sources like volcanos and forest fires. It is also introduced into our environment from sources such as car exhaust and cigarette smoke. It is widely used in the manufacturing of goods such as plastics, paints, lubricants and many other things. It is classified as a carcinogen and has been known to be harmful to humans for a long time. In the United States, government agencies regulate benzene exposure for workers and concentration in products where benzene is considered unavoidable.

what are the side effects of benzene exposure?

Side effects may be mild or severe and may vary with short or long term exposure. Milder side effects may include skin, eye, and lung irritation, dizziness and drowsiness. More serious complications may include tremors and unconsciousness. Very high exposure may even result in death. Long term risks include blood diseases and disorders, including an elevated risk for leukemia and other cancers.

why is benzene in these haircare products?

Benzene is a manufacturing issue. It is not a desirable ingredient in any consumer product. It is not put there intentionally by the manufacturer. It’s a contaminant. It appears in this case Proctor & Gamble found benzene in the propellants which spray the products from the cans.

how was the benzene discovered?

In 2021 independent pharmaceutical testing company Valisure made headlines several times for finding high levels of benzene in consumer products. Valisure has published findings about hand sanitizers, sunscreens, and aerosol antiperspirant/deodorant products. I’ll leave some links to some of the studies at the end of the this post.

After having contaminated products named in the November 2021 study Valisure conducted on aerosol body sprays, Proctor & Gamble started testing their entire portfolio of aerosol products out of concern for contamination. This led to the discovery of benzene in the recalled hair care products.

is benzene in other hair care products on the market?

There is no reason to assume that all aerosol hair care products are contaminated with benzene at this time. However, I believe we would be remiss to dismiss the possibility that there may be more contaminated products that we don’t know about. Valisures findings on other personal care products such as sunscreens showed multiple brands and product types affected, which indicates benzene contamination could be a broad issue across the spectrum of personal care products. As far as I know, there hasn’t been a broad study done on benzene in haircare products. Without the data to confirm or deny, we are really just guessing.

are salon quality products safer than these drugstore brands?

As a professional hairstylist, I appreciate high quality ingredients and formulas that are targeted to deliver specific results to my clients. However, I try to defer to science and logic instead of marketing and profit motive when it comes to discussing and recommending products. While there are many reasons I may genuinely choose to recommend salon quality products to consumers, this broad guarantee of “safety” is not one of them.

Without the tests and data to back it up, I cannot guarantee that the dry shampoos on salon shelves are free of benzene (or anything else, for that matter). If there are contaminated raw ingredients in the supply chain which is shared by multiple brands, logic tells us there is a possibility of wide spread contamination. There is no reason to panic or incite fear over an entire category of products, but I think it’s important to be honest with out clients and speak from an educated perspective. It’s okay to say “we don’t know”.

Some beauty professionals will take this opportunity to wage war on non-professional hair products with statements such as “This is why we tell you not to use Pantene!” or “Drugstore products are filled with toxic junk like this, you should only be buying products from a salon.” I think this is very unfortunate. Participating in fear mongering and spreading misinformation with broad dismissive statements is very irresponsible and reflects poorly on professionals in our industry.

should I stop using my dry shampoo?

If you are using a product that is part of a recall, it is absolutely wise to cease use and dispose of the product in accordance with local regulations. Visit brand websites for information on how to receive reimbursement for recalled products.

If you aren’t using a recalled product but still feeling a bit uneasy about the unknown, you can switch to a non aerosol formula or even DIY a simple dry shampoo at home with ingredients such as arrowroot powder or cornstarch. Your satisfaction with these may vary, but it may offer some peace of mind.

If you want to continue using aerosol dry shampoos, it’s always been recommended to follow some basic precautions. It’s best to apply your product in a well ventilated area and reduce inhalation during the application and while the product settles from the air. Remember to wash your hands after massaging or brushing dry shampoo through your hair.

final thoughts?

Overall, I think this is a teachable moment and a good reminder that we can’t always know what is in our products. There is some amount of risk we assume with everything we put on or into our bodies and it’s up to each of us to assess that risk to the best of our abilities.

It reminds us of the importance of keeping up with product recalls and future updates that may be relevant to our health. It brings attention to the need for more testing of consumer products and better regulations of harmful chemicals like benzene.

Only time will tell us if more haircare products have been contaminated with benzene. Perhaps with enough investigation, the contaminant(s) in the supply chain will be identified and traced to the source. Once identified, something can be done about it. I hope we will see more companies stepping up to do proactive testing on their own products as P&G has done. I also hope we will see improvements in testing and safety in the manufacturing of personal care products.

additional resources

Valisure Detects Benzene in Hand Sanitizers

Valisure Detects Benzene in Sunscreen

Valisure Detects Benzene In Body Spray Products

FDA list of P&G recalled hair products

CDC Facts about benzene

DISCLAIMER: Please be sure to refer to the appropriate government agencies for information on benzene as well as information on recalled products. This post is not intended as medical advice and I am in no way affiliated with any of the brands or agencies mentioned in this post. This is simply for informational purposes and shares my own personal opinions. 

Pulp Riot Hair: Superior paint for extraordinary artists

Rainbow hair is bold, beautiful, and eye-catching. It is a way for clients to express themselves and an artistic outlet for stylists to push the creative envelope with each unique masterpiece. As this trend has grown, the options available to professional colorists have also grown. There are so many brands of vivid hair dyes available now, but today we are going to talk about my personal favorite: Pulp Riot.

My very first shipment of Pulp Riot. Check out the beautiful artwork on the packaging!

David and Alexis Thurston, who you may already recognize from Butterfly Loft & Butterfly Circus, are the founders of Pulp Riot. Together with a partnership of innovative artists including including Ash Fortis, Iris Smith, Jay Wesley Olson, Ricky Zito, and many others, Pulp Riot was formulated and tested. Luxury Brand Partners, parent company of well known and loved brands such as Oribe and R+Co, joined in partnership with Pulp Riot to help deliver this artist-driven brand in the biggest way possible.

Pulp Riot's launch started with an exclusive limited and controlled online only release, for which I was fortunate enough to receive a code for early access. I immediately ordered the full package and fell in love with the product. After the limited release, Pulp Riot became available to all industry professionals on their website. Now, in addition to being available online, you can find Pulp Riot on the shelves of SalonCentric starting February 1st!

What first attracted me to Pulp Riot was the amazing work of the artists who developed the product. These highly skilled colorists work behind the chair on a regular basis, and I knew they understood the needs their product would have to meet to surpass competitiors. They made sure that everything we could ask for in a color line exists within Pulp Riot. Zero degrees of separation between the people that create the product, and the people that use the product is an equation for success.

Upon the unpacking of my first order, I fell in love with Pulp Riot before I ever opened a tube. The beautiful, unique artistry on the boxes is incredible. The convenient packaging of an easy to squeeze tube, with a flip top to open and close, and a bright label depicting the color in the tube placed right on that top, was simple genius. These may seem like little things, but when you have been working with tubes that are not easy to squeeze, caps that require you to screw them on and off, and tubes that will not stand or store in any easy way that you can clearly see the label on them, these small differences stand out. They really thought of everything!

My handmade DIY Pulp Riots watch chart, made from level 9 untoned blonde hair I saved from a client.

Packaging aside - it's what's inside that really won my heart. Highly pigmented, creamy, conditioning color. The color is also 100% vegan. Pulp Riot has amazing spreadability (meaning less product used, to cover a larger amount of hair) and mixes very easily when customizing colors. Their "clear" mixer is not actually clear, instead it is more of a milky-white color which really helps provide dilution when trying to adjust the opacity of a custom shade. All 16 shades in the line are intermixable. You can combine Lemon with Fireball to make a beautiful orange, mix Absinthe with Lemon to create a vibrant neon style green, add Velvet into Smoke to create a smokey violet...the possibilities are endless.

One of my mermaid clients, and a full Pulp Riot Rainbow transformation. We did not remove the preexisting color.

The colors generally do not bleed  when rinsing, either. I see very little color run off in the water when rinsing my clients. More of what I see is a "foam" coming off with the color - some say it looks like shampoo rinsing out - and I believe this is due to the starchy base of the color mixing with water. Simply rinse the hair until the water runs completely clear. I have been able to create looks such as the one below, where previously with other color companies the darker shades bleeding onto the yellow would have been a huge concern.

Color bleeding is not as much of an issue with Pulp Riot. Following standard stylist tricks for vivids, including cool water and high pressure rinsing, I am able to create looks like this without the darker colors at the top dulling the vibrant hues on the bottom.

Semi permanent dyes definitely require special maintenance to maintain their vibrancy, and I educate all of my clients extensively on how to care for their new color. However, I have to say that out of all the vivid dyes I have used before, Pulp Riot stays vibrant the longest and fades more true to tone than any other. My clients are amazed at the vibrancy of their color and the beauty of their fade outs. I personally seem to get the most compliments on my own hair once it begins to fade!

My own Pulp Riot creation featuring Velvet, Jam, Mercury, and Smoke. Fresh on the left, vs. 5 weeks old on the right.

While it stays in the hair very well, Pulp Riot is also fairly easy for us professionals to remove when the time comes. I stumbled upon that fact by accident one day, playing with some lightener on freshly colored hair that had been cut from a client. It started removing the vivids in seconds, right before my eyes! I have experimented on mannequins as well as performed removal several times on my clients, and I have to conclude that overall I have far better experiences removing Pulp Riot than removing other direct dyes.

Removal of faded Pulp Riot color, using lightener and 20 volume.

Removal of OTHER vivids, using lightener & 20 volume.

I have been able to create so many different looks with Pulp Riot. I can paint with confidence and ease thanks to this amazing product. Did I mention, it also smells great? Nearly every client has commented on the pleasant smell of the color. Not really something critical to the experience, but a nice bonus!

Pulp Riot is not just a company that's bringing us haircolor. Pulp Riot is forging the path by providing innovative education, encouraging collaboration instead of competition, and empowering, recognizing, and supporting the artists that use their product. For more information, check them out at www.pulpriothair.com 

Trionics Hair Care: How enzymes changed the game

Today I want to discuss Trionics Hair Care and how their products changed the game for me and my clients. If you're following me on any of my social media accounts, you've probably already seen me posting about these wonderful products. I hope that this post can reach other professionals who may have questions about Trionics, and also serve to educate my clients as to why I am so passionate about the use of these products in the salon.

Trionics makes developers for every level of lift: No Lift for deposit only, Accent for one level of lift, Gray B Gone which is a 17 volume for just the right balance of lift/deposit for gray coverage, Actuator for 2-3 levels of lift, Lift thru which is the highest volume that is safe for on scalp usage, and Higher & Higher for 5-8 levels of lift for off scalp use only.

Let me start by saying Trionics is not new to the industry. For nearly 30 years they have been offering enzyme-based developers to salon professionals. My entire time in beauty school I never heard anything about enzyme developers at all. When I stumbled across a post about Trionics Higher & Higher enzyme developer in a Facebook hair forum, I was intrigued. At first glance, the comparison to 40-80 volume developer seemed scary. Knowing how aggressive 40 volume developer can be, I was terrified of trying something stronger, so when I picked up my first bottle of Higher & Higher I put it to the test on a sample of hair cut from a client. I was shocked to see the high level of lift achieved in a short time, but also amazed at how healthy the hair felt after lightening! This experiment sparked a desire within me to learn more about the product and to get to know how and why the enzymes work. I took a Trionics class at the Fashion Focus hair show in Charlotte, NC in October 2016 where I became familiar with all of their products.

Presentation during Trionics class at the Fashion Focus Charlotte, NC hair show.

While Trionics enzyme developers do still contain hydrogen peroxide like standard developers, the chemistry with the enzymes is far more nuanced. When processed with heat, these enzymes catalyze to accelerate the chemical reaction while also nourshing, healing, and protecting the scalp and hair. Without heat you still reap the benefits of the enzymes, just at normal processing speed. As a colorist, this ensures I achieve brighter blondes, richer reds and browns, better gray coverage, healthier hair, and save time still using my favorite color lines! The products are both gentle and effective, and have been a lifesaver for many stylists and clients who have reactions to using harsh peroxide products in the salon.

Philice LeBow is an educator for Trionics, and she is the daughter of Marvin LeBow, who is the president of Trionics Hair Care. We met in person at the Charlotte Fashion Focus 2016. Philice is extremely knowledgeable and uses social media & her online presence to provide endless support for Trionics users. She makes herself personally available for any questions or troubleshooting to make sure you are getting the most from your products.

Trionics is a line of universal developers, meaning they can be used with all manufacturers color lines and lighteners. Universal developers can be a controversial topic in our industry. Some stylists are opposed to them, and most all manufacturers won't support the use of such products with their color lines. At the end of the day, it is a very personal decision that I would never try to force on someone else. But let me put something out there for consideration: What company wants to admit that another companies product works just as well as, or better than, their own product? It would be directing sales right out the door and hurting their very own pockets. I encourage everyone to do your own research, your own hands on testing, and make your decision based on science vs. opinion.

I have done a ton of testing with my Trionics Hair Care products, and will share some of the results with you here.

For this experiment, I used Schwarzkopf BlondeMe powdered lightener. Tested with Trionics Higher & Higher vs standard 40 volume developer, with and without heat. Trionics Higher & Higher gave superior lift both with and without heat, and also protected the integrity of the hair. The hair used with normal 40 volume under heat was overprocessed and crunchy, dry, and matted. DISCLAIMER: Manufacturers directions of BlondeMe do not recommend using with heat, or anything above 30 volume developer. I broke both of those rules for the sake of this experiment.

It's important to always use good judgement and follow basic precautions when lightening hair, even with enzyme developers. If you wouldn't feel comfortable using normal 30 or 40 volume peroxide on the hair, don't use Trionics Higher & Higher. If you are applying heat to speed processing, use a low to medium gentle heat to process and check the hair frequently during the process. Olaplex also works great to mitigate the damage being done to the hair, but do not rely on that alone to prevent overprocessing. 

Comparison of Redken Freehand clay based lightener and Trionics KO Blondes clay based lightener, using both Redken 40 volume pro-oxide and Trionics Higher & Higher developers. Processed 20 minutes in a meche sheet with medium heat. These hair samples were cut from an artifically colored client.

The launch of Trionics KO Blondes was such an exciting moment! The minute I received my first tub in the mail I couldn't wait to put it to the test. In the past I have used other clay based lighteners with lackluster results. Trionics KO Blondes has blown me away in every aspect. The lightener is violet tinted, which helps to fight brassy tones through the lifting process. The powder is easy to mix, unlike some clay based lighteners which have texture like flour and explode out the bowl making a mess. The lightener stays a nice consistency as you work, unlike some others which swell rapidly in the bowl. The lift when paired with Trionics developers is definitely unmatched by any clay based lightener I've ever used! Brighter blondes, in less time, while still maintaining the integrity of the hair. What more could you ask for?

Comparison using Redken Shades EQ with dedicated processing solution vs. with Trionics No Lift Enzyme Developer. Applied on dry hair and both processed 20 minutes.

Shades EQ is a great product in many colorists arsenals. If you have ever used Shades EQ, you know it calls for a dedicated processing solution. I decided to test using Trionics No Lift enzyme developer to replace my SEQ processing solution. I was impressed to find the same great color payoff, but with an improvement to the consistency of my mixed color as well as more shine on the colored hair. I tested these same hair samples shampooing a total of 10 times to compare longevity, and found that SEQ faded about the same amount on both test strands. Trionics No lift enzyme developer has eliminated the need for me to stock Shades EQ dedicated processing solution.

Trionics Gray B Gone developer with Pravana 4N, on 100% white/gray hair, processed 20 minutes under warm dryer.

Gray coverage is something we have all struggled with. In beauty school we were taught to process gray for the full processing time (often 40-60 minutes) and if the hair was still stubborn, to pretreat by presoftening the hair. This can be a time consuming process, which is not only inconvenient to stylists and clients alike, but also a burden in an industry where time equals money. Trionics Gray B Gone eliminates the need for these time consuming steps, and allows me to cover grays in as little as 20 minutes when capped under a warm dryer. The hair sample for this test was cut from my only 100% gray/white haired client, and illustrates this products amazing ability to penetrate resistant hair. My clients have been amazed by the rich coverage and faster processing time when using Trionics Gray B Gone enzyme developer!

Trionics doesn't just make developers. There is a full arsenal of cleansers & treatments as well as perms. I am a huge fan of the enzyme conditioning cocktail, booster plus blowout spray, Get It Strate semipermanent straightening system, and I also have their Pre-Chemical Cleanser and Chelating clarifying shampoo on the way in my next shipment! I enjoy the consistent quality results that these products provide on a daily basis behind the chair, as well as the world-class education and endless support I've recieved from the company on a personal level. Thank you Trionics for the amazing products you provide and every way you have touched my life!

Some of the beautiful diverse colors I have created using my Trionics Hair Care products.

Are you already using Trionics Hair Care products in the salon? Do you have questions or reservations about making the switch? Feel free to leave your feedback on this post or reach out to me personally.